April 14th, 2009

WINE OF THE WEEK
Saintsbury Vin Gris Almost Irresistible

by Michele Anna Jordan

As an admitted pinot noir enthusiast, I have always had a bit of reservation about rosé made from the beguiling grape, though it is not an intellectual response. Rather, it is an intuitive reaction, as if I just can’t get my subconscious to accept that, really, it is OK and there will still be plenty of pinot noir in the world, even if its rosé becomes really popular.

And it could. Become really popular, that is. Our Wine of the Week, Saintsbury 2008 Carneros Vin Gris of Pinot Noir ($13.99), is a fine example of why. The wine is nearly irresistibly delicious, with a crisp acidity that is as invigorating as a plunge into a pool on a hot day. There is no residual sugar to interfere with the lively flavors of red berries, especially cranberries, red currants, Ranier cherries, ripe red raspberries and, of course, strawberries. Give your imagination free rein and you’ll notice pretty hints of pomegranate as well.

Yet the wine is not simple, not at all. There is a depth to those fruit flourishes, a deep and deeply engaging core that will draw in and delight even the most sophisticated palate. If you harbor any lingering bias against pink wines, this delightful quaffer should go a long way towards eclipsing the bad memories that account for such distaste.

Saintsbury has long been one of the top producers of pinot noir in California and their command of the grape shapes their rosé, too. Each sip reveals that the winemaker knows exactly what he is doing, where he wants this wine to go. In the fall, after the grapes are picked and before fermentation begins, juice is bled from the grapes of high-yield pinot noir vineyards, a fairly common practice that concentrates the flavors in the primary wine.

The pink juice is then fermented in used barrels and released on April Fool’s Day, a lighthearted practice that reveals Saintsbury’s refreshing lack of pretension.

This is a wine to enjoy now and to keep around for summer and fall. It is a prefect companion to summer tomatoes and sweet peppers and will match up nicely with almost anything from the grill, including pizza and foods with a fair amount of spice and heat. It is extraordinary with ahi, whether raw in poke or seared rare for salade Niçoise or a sandwich. When cherries come into season sometime in the next few weeks, you’ll want to have this wine around to serve with a simple cherry salsa spooned over wild salmon. It is perfect for a picnic.

© 2009 Saintsbury
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